This Eric Black rendering of Cody Walls’ East Coast–style Deuce coupe details the deeply channeled proportions achievable while maintaining driveability and a modicum of comfort.

n the earliest days of our hobby, innovative hot rodders identified that increasing power wasn’t the only way to go faster in their stripped-down coupes and roadsters. Decreasing wind resistance was also key. Chopped tops and lowered stances not only looked cool, they reduced the overall height of the bricks-on-wheels these racers were trying to push across the dry lakes. But there was another modification that came into favor early on known as channeling.

The premise is simple: cut out and raise the floor of the car to slide the body down over the frame. The result thins the car’s profile and reduces wind resistance, shaving valuable seconds from e.t.’s in the process. Aesthetically, channeling has just as much impact as chopping a car. Though we all love the styling of American iron from the teens, 1920s, and ’30s, the basis of the designs wasn’t all that far off from the buggies that preceded them—straight-railed, ladder-style frames with steel and wood boxes bolted on top. Stripping the fenders and dropping the body down over the ’rails created a more slippery appearance, hinting at the European sports cars of the era and foreshadowing the design evolution that began in the ’30s when OEs started lowering bodies over frames and continued through the ’60s with the popularization of unibody construction where the body, floor, and frame became one.

Bare Block Performance Package

hen we concluded our Summit Racing LS (330ci) engine build last time we had the block all dialed in and the 3.622-inch stroked crankshaft in place. And while it doesn’t sound like a lot of progress, working with the team at American Heritage Performance (AHP) and their chief engine builder Kyle Martelli, we illustrated just how much prepwork is involved before engine assembly can begin. Thorough block inspection is paramount to a successful performance engine build, and Martelli’s attention to detail will no doubt show through when we put our LS engine through its paces on AHP’s dyno. But before that can happen, we need to continue with the assembly process, starting with the rotating assembly.

To continue with our Summit build, it should come as no surprise that we chose to use their LS Pro line of products for nearly all the moving parts in our motor. Starting with their 6.125-inch H-beam connecting rods and concluding with a set of their forged 2618 alloy pistons, the top end of our LS is a complete assembly of Summit Racing LS Pro parts. Like the crankshaft installation, Martelli inspected all the components, noted the results, and compared them to the specs provided by Summit and the bearing manufacturer. Pleased with the results, Martelli proceeded to file the ring pack to spec before assembling the piston/rod assembly. From there, using an ARP piston installation tool, Martelli dropped each slug pack into their respective cylinder, torquing every rod cap to spec via ARP 2000 rod bolts.

hether you drive an early hot rod or a postwar ride, the fact is you will undoubtedly need to overcome a steering issue or two. Maybe it’s an engine compartment fitment issue. Maybe you want power steering but don’t want to change the steering box and then add the required accessories to pull it all together. Flaming River offers a solution to both steering fitment and gaining electric power-assisted steering. They offer the VDOG Variable Angle Gear and Microsteer as the solution for electric power-assisted steering.

ike many homebuilders putting a hot rod together on a budget, John Winter received a form of sticker shock when it came time for an interior in his ’32 Ford coupe. The estimates he received were much higher than expected, but Winter is not a man easily discouraged. So, despite never having done it, Winter decided to upholster the car himself. Winter’s latest effort was a full interior in his ’36 Ford Tudor sedan and he was kind enough to show us how he did it. We’re going to start with some relatively easy tasks, like covering flat panels, then we’ll get into more complicated jobs, like seats and headliners, in subsequent installments.

For those who want to do upholstery at home, there are a few things you’ll need, not the least of which is a proper sewing machine. Not to be confused with a common household variety sewing machine, the most common type of machine for upholstery work is the single needle, “walking foot” lockstitch machine. With an ordinary sewing machine, as the stitches are made the fabric is pulled past the needle by what are called “feed dogs.” This mechanism pulls on the bottom layer of fabric only. By comparison a walking foot sewing machine pulls the material through from the top and bottom, feeding multiple layers of material evenly. Like anything else, the best way to learn how to sew straight lines is to practice by making chalk lines on scrap material.

s we wrap up another issue of Modern Rodding, I thought it would be fun to take a reminiscent look at one of the true innovative thinkers and craftsmen our industry has produced. Lil’ John Buttera was “the name” within our industry beginning back in the mid ’70s, and his influence remained at the forefront for the next 30 years. He was no stranger to building race cars or hot rods. But it was his hot rods that, I believe, made him truly special.

John told me on many occasions, “Starting a hot rod project wasn’t the issue, it was finishing it that proved to be a real issue.”