1. In the initial illustration by Jimmy Smith Concepts, we see the callout for scratch-built bumpers and filler pans at both the front and rear, along with the immediate stance enhancement.

BY BRIAN BRENNAN PHOTOGRAPHY BY NOTSTOCK PHOTOGRAPHY & TIN MAN’S GARAGE ARTWORK JIMMY SMITH CONCEPTS

e kicked off our build series on the 1957 Ford Ranchero coming out of Tin Man’s Garage (Brian Limberg) in Part 1. Limberg enlisted Jimmy Smith of Jimmy Smith Concepts to illustrate what this highly modified 1957 Ford Ranchero would look like. Since owner Mike Long was on board with these upgrades, “Cool Ranch” started its journey to a rod run near you. From here, we can now see the 1957 Ranchero in metal finish through the lens of John Jackson of NotStock Photography. In Part 2, we will look at a popular modification to all sorts of hot rods—bumper tuck.

To recap in Part 1, we examined the interior and discussed several modifications that, through Jimmy’s artistic eye, provided a starting point for the talented team at Tin Man’s Garage, resulting in something spectacular. Now, in Part 2, we spoke with Limberg and he filled us in on what was happening.

In talking with Limberg, he has long believed that one of Ford’s most noticeable design flaws on the 1957 Ford passenger cars are the front bumpers. Limberg pointed out, “Specifically, the height they were mounted in relation to the ground when compared to the rockers. The amount of framehorn and lower radiator support visible is kind of peculiar; even after radically lowering these cars, it is still an eyesore.”

Beginning at the front—where else? The team at TMG Vision aimed to enhance, but not significantly change, the Ford Ranchero’s appeal. According to Limberg, TMG started by “wedge-sectioning the body” and simultaneously replaced any rusted sheet metal along the rocker panel area. By doing so, TMG was also able to lower the grille and the rest of the front end sheet metal by 1-1/2 inches relative to the ground.

From this point, TMG designed a bumper filler panel that allowed the bumper to lower by an additional inch. Moving to the rear, TMG then replicated the rear bumper profile, which was an inch taller than the original front bumper. From there, the rear bumper was flipped, revealing a new bumper profile that’s “upside down.”

In the end, the side profile of the 1957 Ford Ranchero looked entirely different. Now, the bottom of the front bumper is 3-1/2 inches closer to the ground after these three modifications were completed.

Let’s follow the efforts of Chris Tapp from TMG as he designs the new front bumper and filler pan for Cool Ranch.

2. In Part 2 of our 1957 Ford Ranchero Project (Cool Ranch) at Tin Man’s Garage (TMG), we see just what an improvement to overall appearance and stance the tucked front bumper makes.

4. The rear bumper looks “so right” that you fail to initially realize that we are now looking at a scratch-built rear bumper.

6. The Pullmax dies were cut from steel and bolted into a universal die holder. The rough shape was initially formed, then passed through the dies to stamp the clean profile.

7. A set of 5/16 radius fingers was used in the brake to form the left and right sides of the recessed panels. The panels were cut and welded along the center peak.

9. A small piece of sheet metal was shrink-formed around the edges. Form was introduced and a planishing hammer was used to stretch the center. It was trimmed, and a T-dolly was utilized to shape the inside corner.

11. Both halves were fully TIG welded, sanded, and given a rough metal finish. Extensions were added to the center of each piece after realizing the design could be improved by aligning those recessed areas more closely with the shape of the grilles.

12. The bumper is starting to take shape as both sides are finally welded together, creating one uniform piece.

14. A die change and table removal were necessary for the ERCO to complete the 3/4-inch flange in the other direction. The panel then flipped back over, and the rest of the original flange was carefully finished with the original set of dies.

16. A closeup shot after the two panels were finally welded in the previous step. The tapered transition area was finished by hand using various hammers, T-dollies, and a planishing hammer.

18. The focus for these roughly made panels was to ensure the formed edge flows properly into the wheel opening and to create a mounting flange for the fender.

20. The side panel was marked along the flanged edge, and the flange material was added and trimmed. The short edge was flanged using pliers and hand tools.

22. Once the forming and fitting were completed, the panel was installed and finally welded.

24. The patterns were transferred to sheet metal blanks and cut out on a band saw. The shrinking procedure is marked on the blanks to ensure consistency for both sides during the process.

25. A combination of shrinking and T-dolly work was used to shape the bumper ends roughly. Next, they will be smoothed with a planishing hammer and hand tools.

27. The taper detail is made by running the panel the full length and then removing it. Next, slightly increase the die engagement depth and run it again, this time with slightly less length than the previous pass.

29. Some material was cut from the corners, then the edge was formed with a T-dolly to cap the bumper ends.

31. Once the bumper ends were fully metal finished, they were fitted and fully welded to the center bumper section.

33. Notice the smooth angle of the finished bumper that complements the headlight eyebrows and grille angle.