Modern Rodding TECH

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1. With the firewall in place, it is time to tackle the upper and lower cowl panels.
Upper and Lower Cowl Replacement
Our ’64 Ford Galaxie Receives Fresh Upper and Lower Cowl Sheetmetal
By Brian Brennan Photography by Jason Chandler
O

ur ’64 Ford Galaxie (named “Project Lara Lor-Van”) belongs to Eddy Cebreco and has a great deal of sheetmetal work that is needed. We have already begun by replacing the firewall, now comes the upper and lower cowl areas. This is going to give us all fresh metal underhood at the firewall/windshield area. It should be noted that Auto Metal Direct (AMD) makes a great number of sheetmetal pieces for not only our ’64 Ford Galaxie but any number of other buildable material from the ’60s.

The project continues with Auto Metal Direct (AMD) freshly stamped sheetmetal. These upper and lower cowl pieces will fit both the ’63 and ’64 Ford Galaxie. The upper cowl carries PN 360-8963 while the lower cowl carries PN 360-8963-1. To achieve our efforts, we relied on AMD for the sheetmetal and then Craig Hopkins of The Installation Center to perform the work along with Jubee Mays of aMAYSing Metal Works.

While we may be working on a ’64 Ford Galaxie, the fact remains that the firewall and the upper and lower cowl area are subject to rust. Cars of this period trap water that runs off from the roof down the windshield and is captured through the cowl plenum area (directly beneath the windshield). It’s not only water but how about all manner of dirt, leaves, and other debris that clogs the drain points. Water is then trapped and the rust process begins.

Sit back and take in the photos that show you how Hopkins and Mays begin the project and work their way until it is out with the old and in with the new. Keep an eye out as there will be more sheetmetal projects coming in later months on Cebreco’s ’64 Ford Galaxie.

'64 Ford Galaxie upper cowl panel
'64 Ford Galaxie lower panel
2-3. Auto Metal Direct offers a huge selection for the ’63-64 Ford Galaxie. These new upper and lower cowls are the perfect solution for project Lara Lor-Van (upper cowl PN 360-8963, lower cowl PN 360-8963-1).
Craig Hopkins of the Installation Center using an air chisel
4. Craig Hopkins of The Installation Center will be helping Jubee Mays get these panels ripped out. The air chisel is the tool of choice here. A decent-quality air hammer allows for the control you need to remove the panels.
Jubee Mays of aMAYSing Metal Works uses air chisel on passenger side
5. Mays takes on the passenger side, showing how the angle on the chisel removes the old metal without damaging the panels you want to preserve.
Hopkins and Mays get the cowls out in bulk
6. In a previous issue, the front of the cowl was loosened to install the new AMD firewall. Hopkins and Mays tag team either side to get the rest of the upper and lower cowl out in bulk, all while preserving the VIN tags on either side.
Panels rotting
7. As you can see, the rot on these panels is showing through. These panels are notorious for rust.
Removing the bulk of the panel
8. Removing the bulk of the panel is the preferred method at The Installation Center. By doing so, you are left with smaller pieces that are more manageable to maneuver.
Water and rust rotting away panels
9. With the panels out of the way, you can see just how bad these hold water and rust out over the years. AMD has made it a breeze by offering the full OE-style replacements.
Mays using grinding wheel to knock down the rest of the old metal
10. Mays uses his grinding wheel to knock down the rest of the old metal left behind at the original spot welds.
36-grit sanding disc used to smooth out panel
11. Following the grinding wheel, Mays uses his 36-grit sanding disc to smooth out the panel we are going to be installing it to. This will ensure a tight fit between the old panels and the new AMD cowls.
Mays removing the EDP Coating
12. A little prep goes a long way. Mays removes the EDP coating from the new panels at all the mating surfaces and welding sites using a wire wheel and drill.
Welding primer over both cowls to prevent rust
13. A quick coat of weld-through primer is used at all the mating services where the new cowls will meet with each other and with the remaining panels on the car. This will ensure years of rust protection between everything.
Coat of OSPHO used to prevent rust
14. A coat of OSPHO is used on the Galaxie to stop any rust on the original panels. This is a perfect time to treat the car in the areas that are usually inaccessible.
Adding sealer to lower cowl drain holes on either side for sealing and bonding
15. With assembly just about ready, we need to add some sealer to the lower cowl drain holes on either side. Medallion RS-229 Urethane Sealant is their preferred product here. It allows the same product to be used in sealing and bonding, therefore eliminating the need for several products.
Applying sealant to both sides of the cowl
16. Apply sealant to both sides of the lower cowl. It will seal to the cowl side panel. Let’s get this installed.
Mays drops in the new AMD lower cowl panel
17. Mays drops in the new AMD lower cowl panel and starts clamping everything up. This is where that prep comes in big time. The secret to a good weld is a tight fit.
Mays uses the spot welder to begin installation
18. With the lower cowl just right, Mays uses the spot welder to begin installation.
the A-Pillar is spot-welded to the lower cowl just like the original
19. The A-pillar is spot-welded to the lower cowl just like the original.
Mays moves onto the upper cowl panel
20. Mays moves onto the upper cowl panel.
Lots of clamps ensure that the rest of the weld up process is tight
21. Lots of clamps ensure that the rest of the weld-up process is tight and exactly where it needs to be.
Mays spot welds the upper cowl to the lower working from the center out
22. With everything lined up, Mays spot-welds the upper cowl to the lower working from the center out. When you get to a clamp, weld on one side, then the other. Then remove your clamp and weld in the center where the clamp was.
the windshield channel is complete and the the sides are left
23. With the windshield channel complete, finish welding the sides.
the front along the firewall is the same welding procedure as the windshield channel
24. The front along the firewall is the same welding procedure as the windshield channel. Start in the center and move your way outward, removing clamps as you go along.
Mays drills out the panel just enough to gain clearance to the door hinge pillar using a smaller drill bit
25. There is some plug welding that needs to be done where the spot welder can’t reach. Mays drills out the panel just enough to gain clearance to the door hinge pillar using a smaller drill bit to start then a larger bit to ensure good penetration. Don’t go too deep here; just enough to reach the panel below.
Mays sets his machine according to the sheetmetal thickness and uses a 0.023 wire
26. Fill in the holes with your MIG welder. Mays sets his machine according to the sheetmetal thickness and uses a 0.023 wire. The edge of the panel is stitch welded just like factory.
Clean up your welds starting with a 36-grit sanding disc and moving onto the buffing disc
27. Clean up your welds starting with a 36-grit sanding disc and moving onto the buffing disc.
Mays adds a coat of Medallion OE Coat to prevent the new installation from rusting before it heads to bodywork
28. With the panel cleaned up, Mays adds a coat of Medallion OE Coat to prevent the new installation from rusting before it heads to bodywork.
Next up, replacing the floorpan
29. Next up, replacing the floorpan. Continuing our tech series on project Lara Lor-Van, we show just how to remove and replace the factory floorpan. You will see it here in Modern Rodding.
Auto Metal Direct
(833) 404-4777
autometaldirect.com
The Installation Center
(706) 348-6653
amdinstallation.com
Modern Rodding

VOLUME 4 • ISSUE 30 • 2023