So, when it came time to start assembling the suspension components for our 1940 Ford DeLuxe here at Clampdown Competition we knew we were going to go with four-wheel disc brakes. It was also decided we’d be better off starting with a new chassis from Fatman Fabrications with its modern, Mustang II–style IFS up front, rack-and-pinion steering, and a 9-inch Ford rearend located by a triangulated four-link. Four-corner coilovers will also be used along with sway bars, front and rear, with the intention of getting our old Ford to perform and ride like a more modern vehicle than Henry originally designed. We’ll be using stock-style 1940 Ford wheels from Coker Tire, so our DeLuxe will still look the part, but with the blown Chrysler pumping out double what the original Flathead was capable of we’ll be in need of some serious stopping power.

Wilwood Engineering is a name that’s become synonymous with high-performance disc brake systems since its inception in 1977. Today, they’re one of the most installed stopping systems in a number of aftermarket applications. Their Dynalite line of forged four-piston calipers serve as the baseline for a number of Wilwood’s brake kits and when used with their large, vented rotors will make for the perfect fit for our 1940. Their internal rear parking brake design will allow us to use a traditional floor-mounted Lokar handle, mated using a set of their cables.

While our Fatman Fabrications chassis was being built, we ordered a set of wheels and tires from Coker Tire, opting to use their powdercoating and mounting/balancing services so that our rollers arrived ready to install. A slight oversight on our part, we ordered the wheels with the early Ford bolt pattern of 5×5.5 while our chassis was assembled with parts for a 5×4.5 pattern. What seemed at first to only be a slight hiccup, it was soon made clear the severity of our mistake; Wilwood does not offer a rotor or front hub in the larger 5.5 bolt pattern. We were coming to the conclusion that ordering another set of wheels with the correct bolt pattern might be our only option. At the eleventh hour, it was realized that our Coker Steelies were drilled with two bolt patterns, the other being 5×5. A quick perusal of Wilwood’s website and we found a front hub that would allow us to use the same brake components we had already acquired using the 5×5 bolt pattern. Out back, the biggest pill to swallow was the fact that our existing axles couldn’t simply be drilled with the additional bolt pattern, as the flange didn’t have the space for an additional five holes due to the bearing retainer bolt access hole. The rear rotors, however, were set up with all three of the popular bolt patterns, so once again, our brake components would be good to go. The solution to our axle obstacle was provided by Speedway Motors in the form of their Cut-To-Fit 9-Inch Ford Axle Kit. These 28-spline replacement axles are designed long with extra splines machined so the end user can easily cut them to fit their own housing. They also come drilled with the same three popular bolt patterns, which means our 5×5 bolt pattern can be used and all is not lost!

While building an Early Ford with a 5×5 bolt pattern is indeed goofy, if it’s decided that we want to swap over to the more common Ford 5×4.5 bolt pattern in the future, all that’s required is a hub swap up front and moving the rear wheel studs to the proper pattern out back; the rest of the components don’t know nor care.

At the end of the day we were pleased that our little mistake only cost us a pair of axles and it turned out to be fairly painless, all told. While we could have overlooked this little “whoopsie” and our disc brake install would be all the same to you, our loyal readers, we thought it was only fair to be honest about the situation and to show that we make mistakes sometimes, too. At the end of the day, it allowed us to add a few more details to the install and provided some interesting information regarding the components used. If nothing else, we hope you learn from our mistake!

2. To mate up to our Mustang II spindle, we’ll be using Wilwood’s Dynalite Brake Kit (PN 140-11017), which consists of their Dynalite forged caliper, billet aluminum caliper bracket, and brake pads. The stock hubs for this kit are dual-drilled for either 5×4.5 (Ford) or 5×4.75 (Chevy) bolt patterns. As aforementioned, we wanted to use our existing wheel/tire combo from Coker Tire, which were dual drilled to 5×5 and 5×5.5. Wilwood doesn’t offer a 5×5.5 hub, so we’ll be using their 5×5 hub (PN 270-14515) to make everything work.

4. Out back, Fatman provided a 9-inch rearend, compatible with Wilwood’s Dynalite Brake Kit (PN 140-7140) for the new-style, big-bearing Ford axle housing ends. Like the front brake kit, out back a matching Dynalite forged caliper will grasp a drilled, slotted, and vented 12.19-inch rotor.

6. A rear view of the parking brake assembly shows the caliper and parking brake cable brackets.

8. Next, we’re going to assemble the rotor to the rotor adapter using the provided 5/16-18×0.75-inch Torx Button Head fasteners. A dab of Red Loctite 271 thread locker is applied to each bolt as it’s installed …

9. … before the assembly is torqued to a final setting of 25 lb-ft using an alternating sequence.

11. The hub/rotor assembly is now ready to be installed on the spindle, followed by a grease-packed small outer bearing cone. A spindle washer and OEM spindle nut are then installed and the bearings adjusted per OEM specifications. A cotter pin is installed to keep everything tight, followed by Wilwood’s aluminum dust cap to keep the grease in and the dirt out.

12. Next, the caliper is temporarily installed using the provided 3/8-24×1.25-inch fasteners and the caliper to rotor clearance is reviewed. Properly aligned, the rotor should be perfectly centered when viewed through the top of the opening in the caliper. If not, an assortment of 0.035-inch shims are provided to get things in line, placed between the caliper and the caliper bracket. Care must be exercised, however, to be sure the proper clinch nut engagement is achieved. The end of each bolt must be flush with, or slightly proud, from the head of the clinch nut. If necessary, shims can be installed between the caliper fastener and the caliper mounting ear to achieve proper clinch nut engagement. Regardless of the shims used and where, the same amount must be used at either location to keep the caliper perpendicular to the rotor. Once the caliper is found to be centered and clinch nut engagement correct, red Loctite 271 is applied to each bolt and torqued to 40 lb-ft.

14. With our front Wilwood Dynalite kit installed, we’re ready to move onto the rear.

15. Changing the bolt pattern on our rearend is slightly more complicated than a simple hub swap like the front. To get the 5×5 pattern necessary to allow us to use our existing wheels, we’re going to need to swap out the axles. A Speedway Motors Cut-To-Fit Axle Kit (PN 9107996) will get the job done.

17. Speedway’s Cut-To-Fit axles come with an extra-long set of splines, 9-1/4 inches on the 33-inch axle and 10 inches on the shorter, 29.51-inch axle, which should cover most street rod applications.

19. A simple chop saw makes quick work for shorter axles.

21. There are two different bearing/seal arrangements common to the 9-inch Ford rearend. This axle was set up to use what’s commonly referred to as “Big Bearing, New Style” sealed axle bearings, which are self-contained, and use a seal inside the housing that keeps the gear oil inside from leaking out the axle ends. Our Speedway axles use an open-type bearing, commonly referred to as a “Torino Bearing” or “Set 20” that utilizes a seal on the outside of the axle bearing and requires gear oil to reach the bearing for lubrication.

23. An initial check for fitment and everything seems as it should be.

25. Before the axles are installed, we need to press in the wheel studs using the desired bolt pattern (5×5).

26-27. Next, the axle is inserted into the axle housing and a Wilwood bearing retainer installed with the opening pointing upward and the lip facing toward the bearing. The four axle housing T-bolts are then torqued to OEM specifications.

29. The rotor is slid in place and temporarily held tight using a pair of lug nuts.

31. Brake pads are installed in the same manner as the front calipers and the rotor checked for center one final time.

33. … via their parking brake floor mount lever (PN EHB-7000F) once we get around to the interior appointments.

34. With the rear Wilwood brake installation complete, all that’s left is to properly bed the pads and rotors following Wilwood’s instructions.