LEAF REMOVAL

By Tommy Lee Byrd Photography by Brian Brennan

eaf springs are commonplace in the old car world. We’ve relied on them for more than 100 years but they’re not always the ideal platform for performance. In the case of this ’56 Chevrolet Nomad project car, it had a nice stance and already had a selection of aftermarket components, but the owner wanted to make big improvements. He commissioned Hot Rods by Dean (HRBD) to revitalize the suspension with a Heidts four-link rear suspension kit (PN RC-151-K).

The new suspension eliminates the leaf springs in favor of an adjustable four-link system, coilovers, and a sway bar. Additional options include a new 9-inch rearend housing, complete with pre-installed brackets. In addition to the rearend and suspension upgrades, this Nomad also received 12-inch Wilwood disc brakes and four-piston calipers, a huge upgrade from the original drum brakes.

The install process is intense for the casual car enthusiast. It’s not what we’d consider the average weekend project. You’ll need cutting tools, a good MIG welder, and a wide selection of hand tools to get the job done. Luckily, Heidts has taken the guesswork out of it and handled most of the challenging fabrication work.

Follow along as we follow Cody Barenz of HRBD as he installs the Heidts triangulated four-link rear suspension and gives this Nomad improved handling and ride quality. This classic Chevy is ready for the road once again!

3. To upgrade the rear suspension, Hot Rods by Dean (HRBD) is installing a Heidts ’55-57 triangulated four-link kit (PN RC-151-K). The heart of the kit is the main crossmember, but you’ll see that it also comes with additional bracketry and a new shock crossmember.

5. Before getting started, a few measurements are taken on the frame. According to the Heidts instructions, the crossmember is positioned 1 inch forward of the body mount and 5/8 inch from the top of the framerail.

7. It’s important that the crossmember is installed squarely between the framerails. Simple tools and tape measures are sufficient for the task.

9. With the main crossmember test-fitted, it’s time to start modifying the framerails in preparation for the additional brackets. The kick-up area of the rear framerails needs to be smooth, as that is where the upper four-link brackets are located.

11. After smoothing the inner framerail, it was time for more measurements and markings to position the triangulated four-link brackets. The Heidts instructions call for 3-1/4 inches back from the “front” body mount and 4-1/2 inches ahead of the “rear” body mount.

13. The beauty of adding the rearend housing to the order is the pre-welded brackets. This saves a lot of time, as it already has the upper and lower four-link brackets, the coilover brackets, and sway bar brackets welded.

15. The 9-inch rearend housing is mocked up using jackstands, and then the lower link bars are loosely installed. It’s a good idea to wrap the bars in tape to prevent damage during mockup.

17. Here Cody Barenz from HRBD uses a straightedge and measuring tape, as you’ll need to take some baseline measurements to determine the proper location for the triangulated four-link bracket. Heidts calls for 4-5/16 inches from the center of the upper hole on the main crossmember to the center of the hole on the triangulated bracket.

19. With the triangulated brackets tack-welded, the upper link bars can be loosely bolted into place. Using jackstands, you can move the rearend housing to your estimated ride height.

21. While the rearend is at the proposed ride height, it’s also a good time to mark the proper location for the supplied bumpstops. Brackets are provided and should be welded to the inner framerail. Then the bumpstop is threaded into the bracket.

23. The coilover shock crossmember is now partially welded to the framerails. It’s important to mock up the coilovers and sway bar before final welding.

25. The Heidts kit also comes with every necessary nut and bolt to complete the install. The coilover is loosely bolted into place, as is the sway bar for mockup purposes.

27. Heim joints are used on the sway bar endlinks, offering plenty of adjustability. Heidts suggests threading the ends all the way inward and then back them out approximately 3/8 inch. Only mount one side and wait until the car is resting on flat ground to connect the other side.

29. Wilwood’s retainer bracket is responsible for holding the backing plate and axle in place. It bolts to the Ford housing with the provided hardware.

31. The Wilwood 12.19-inch vented rotors are drilled with multiple wheel bolt patterns, so align the proper holes and studs to slide the rotor into place.

32. Finally, the Wilwood four-piston calipers are bolted to the supplied brackets. The brake system is completed with new hard lines and flex hose. As with any brake system modifications, the system will need to be bled.