Modern Rodding TECH

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Bubble level and digital protractor laid across frame rails
1. Anytime you are doing fabrication or repair on a chassis it is good practice to start “on the bubble.” Leveling the car and supporting it with jackstands makes for a good start.
Frame Fixin'
Saving Your Original Frame is an Option With This ’Rail Rescue
By Gerry Burger
I

t seems doing a complete chassis swap has become SOP (standard operating procedure) for many shops. And while there is something to be said for a completely re-engineered chassis for your vintage ride, in many cases it simply isn’t needed, isn’ in the budget, isn’ available, or all the above. In that case it may be time to rescue that old frame.

Before any rescue and repair can be done to that original chassis you must first determine if the chassis is in fact repairable. Extensive rust, damage from a prior collision, or excessive cutting from previous modifications may make the frame beyond repair. The team at Hot Rod Specialties determined the frame under Terry Thompson’s ’34 Chrysler was in overall good condition except for the passenger side lower framerail. A section of that ’rail had received rust repair some time in this old car’s storied past. While the repair appeared to be structurally sound it was not up to contemporary standards.

Since the car was in the shop for a Fatman Fabrications front clip (more on that in a future issue), this was the perfect time for a proper framerail repair. This is a task well within the reach of many homebuilders who possess a reasonable amount of skill and know-how, including structural fabricating and welding skills. This is no place for “pretty good” welding, it must be professional-grade welding that includes internal fishplates for structural framerail repair. With that in mind, let’s follow along as the team at Hot Rod Specialties show us how the pros go about properly repairing a damaged framerail.

Fatman Fabrications subframe
2. The framerail is being repaired in preparation for the installation of this Fatman Fabrications subframe.
Prior repair done on framerail
3. This was an earlier repair of the framerail. It appeared the lower ’rail had serious rust in this one area. The repair appeared to be structurally sound, but not up to the standard of Hot Rod Specialties (HRS). Soapstone lines mark the cuts.
Chassis and engine on jackstands
4. The chassis and engine must be safely supported by jackstands to ensure nothing moves during the repair process. The huge front crossmember will be removed later.
Section of framerail next to engine cut out
5. With the framerail supported on either side of the cuts, the old framerail section is removed. Pick your weapon of choice; the die grinder, Sawzall, or pneumatic saw all make clean cuts.
Removed section of framerail
6. Here is the old, repaired section out and on the floor. Those two studs are fender mounts so you will need those measurements for the new studs that will be included in the repair.
New section of framerail plug welded in place
7. The replacement section is formed from 1/8-inch cold-roll steel. Internal fishplates are plug welded to the inside of the new ’rail and extend into the old ’rail.
Fishplate on outer framerail side
8. Here we can see the fishplate is plug welded to the outer side ’rail. Note the ends on the fishplate and the shape of the new outer framerail are not straight vertical cuts. By using angle cuts you eliminate stress caused when welding. Single line vertical seams can often lead to stress cracks.
Fishplate test fitted onto rail
9. The final fabricating, welding, and metal finishing were done on the welding table. Here we see the piece back in place. The back side has not been boxed yet to allow welding of the fishplates and welding nuts in place for the fender mount studs.
New piece tack welded onto frame
10. Satisfied with the fit of the new piece it is tack welded in place. Note the slightly beveled welding root gap on the panel fit. This gap ensures good weld penetration to both outer ’rails and the internal fishplate.
New section in place
11. After welding the seams they were metal finished, so the framerail appears to be original from the outside. Inside the framerail the fishplate is welded and those welds are left unfinished.
Studs added to outer side of framerail section
12. Two nuts were welded inside the ’rail to accept 3/8-16 studs. Then the inside of the framerail was boxed, completing one very strong ’rail repair. The front seam is not welded as it will be cut there to accept the Fatman Fabrications subframe.
Fatman Fabrications
(704) 545-0369
fatmanfab.com
Hot Rod Specialties
(317) 802-7762
tech@hotrodspecialties.com
Modern Rodding
VOLUME 5 • ISSUE 41 • 2024