Modern Rodding TECH
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1. A bit of glovebox reduction will provide the required space for our new gauge layout. Some straight-forward metalwork gets the job done.
aluminum glovebox
1. A bit of glovebox reduction will provide the required space for our new gauge layout. Some straight-forward metalwork gets the job done.
Less is More
It Happens All the Time in the World of Hot Rods
By Gerry Burger Photography by THE AUTHOR
O

ur project ’36 Ford phaeton is making steady progress. After painting it at home (Modern Rodding Apr. ’22 issue; https://inthegaragemedia.com/inflatable-spray-booth-makes-it-easier-to-paint-like-a-pro/) we cut, buffed, and started assembling the body. However, we had not addressed the dashboard, mostly because we were determined to be done with the bodywork and because the dash will be a different color than the body.

The dashboard would be our first step in building the interior. In my humble opinion, the ’36 Ford open-car dashboard is overly plain, heading toward ugly. It should be noted, closed cars had a better dash. Since the roadsters and phaetons had this plain-Jane look, it was perfect material for a little hot rod enhancement.

We decided to ditch the stock ’36 Ford gauges in favor of a ’47 Ford speedometer and clock. We liked the larger size and the art deco look of the later gauges. Since this is a very traditional car, we decided black Stewart-Warner gauges, fresh off SpeedwayMotors.com, would be the perfect mate for our ’61 vintage, black face Stewart-Warner tach.

Armed with that decision we took out our tape measure and quickly ran out of room for the gauges. It seems the glovebox was consuming a disproportionate amount of the dashboard; it was more like a footlocker than a glovebox. To make everything fit, the glovebox would need to be shortened. We have seen hot rods with the glovebox eliminated, but felt we needed all the weather-tight (relatively speaking) storage we could get in our topless tub.

So we set about a glovebox reduction program, along with building a new steel glovebox in place of the cardboard unit from 1936. Like most metalworking projects it was a matter of working slowly and measuring twice … cutting once. Our reduction in size was dramatic, yet with the dashboard back in the car it looked quite proportional, and chances are the untrained eye could assume it is a factory glovebox. (We may even start a rumor about the super-rare, “small glovebox ’36 Ford phaetons;” only five were built, all on April 1, 1936. One known to survive.) (Editor’s note: This is what happens when you are living on an island off the coast of Georgia! —B.B.)

Because of the taper of the dashboard the glovebox door is not square, rather it follows the contour of the dashboard. To reduce the opening and then fill it with a door involved cutting it both vertically and horizontally. The glovebox door accents these tapers for a very pleasing look. We managed to make cuts that saved the factory mounting tabs for the actual glovebox, again adding to the illusion of a factory unit.

The glovebox door hinge is a rudimentary unit made of a rod that rotates in two simple brackets. We shortened the rod and used one original hinge hole and drilled a second hole to complete the hinge. We drilled a hole in the center of the door and used a cool chrome knob from Lokar to complete the early hot rod look.

After the glovebox project was complete, we had the desired extra room for our gauges. We will show you the completion of the dashboard and gauges in the next issue. But for now, let’s take a closer look at reducing and reshaping our ’36 Ford glovebox.

vintage gauges
2. This how it all began, a circa ’61 Stewart-Warner tach and some swap meet ’47 Ford gauges. That combo will get you in trouble every time.
vintage steering wheel
3. After leather-wrapping our ’36 Ford steering wheel and modifying the horn button, in our opinion the stock dash was looking a bit mundane, boring, and sleepy. Time for a little hot rod influence.
dash panel on table
4. With the dash back out of the car we enlarged the speedometer hole and added about 3/8 inch to the bottom of the dash to make room for the new speedo. At the same time, we decided to eliminate the original step up in the center of the dash. Our T-5 shifter won’t need the clearance.
dashboard and steering wheel
5. Installing the dash back in the car told us we were on the right track. Notice how large the glovebox is and you will also notice even Ford couldn’t get the gauges to look straight on the curvaceous ’36 dashboard.
glovebox with markings
6. This is our basic marking, we found a horizontal centerline as a guide and decided to shorten the door approximately 2-1/2 inches. Both the door and the dashboard were marked for the new size.
dashboard with taped openings
7. Tape measures are nice but we like to see things, and so some simple templates were cut out and taped in place. The verdict was in; it was time for some glovebox reduction … a not-so common cosmetic procedure.
man using die grinder
8. A quick pass with the trusty die grinder cut the door down to the desired opening size. This is just the first cut; it will be shortened once more.
cut down glovebox door
9. This is the initial cut, note we also cut the rod that constitutes the very simple hinge arrangement on an early Ford glovebox.
cut glovebox door in dash opening
10. We reinstalled the door for a quick visual and liked the look. Next, we need to shorten the door one more time to make room for the corners.
glovebox door in clamp
11. We shortened the door and hinge rod the amount of the cut-off corner piece. We simply held the cut-off piece in place, marked the door, and shortened it. Then some careful fitting and clamping completed the operation.
cut and welded glovebox door
12. Back for a test-fit we were pleased so far. Our bottom gap was nice and straight with an even gap. The lower gap is a bit larger to allow the hinge to work.
welded glovebox

13. We repeated the same procedure for the top corner. Again, careful fitting and trimming always pays. To our eye, the shorter door forms a more pleasant shape.

welded glovebox on table

14. Now the trick is to move the stock corners over to form the dashboard opening. We like to use tape to mark cut lines, and the arrows indicate which side of the tape to cut … not that we have ever cut on the wrong side!

cut piece of glovebox door
15. That small piece above the dashboard is the cutout piece we will use for the corner. Note we cut above the actual inside glovebox mounting tab; we will need that tab later.
taped glovebox door
16. Here we test-fit the corner piece with tape. Certain it would fit properly we used more tape to mark the cuts along the upper dash to permit the corner piece to be fitted in place.
tack welded pieces of glovebox door
17. After cleaning the old paint off the corner piece we carefully fit it to the new opening and tack-welded it in place.
dashboard and glovebox
18. We repeated the process, tack-welding the lower corner in place. Once satisfied with the fit, we finished welding and dressed the welds. We are pleased with the new shape and the extra gauge room.
posterboard formed in glovebox
19. The next step is forming the actual box portion of the glovebox. We used posterboard to form a template. Notice how those original mounting tabs come in handy.
glovebox mockup in dashboard
20. Using our template we did a quick clearance check. That’s a Vintage Air heater peeking through our new opening. We had plenty of room.
inside of glovebox
21. We formed the corners with a simple metal brake and bending the relatively thin 20-gauge metal around a piece of pipe. Yes, 20-gauge is thin, but this a glovebox, not a motor mount, and remember the stock one was cardboard.
clamped glovebox prototype
22. After forming the four corners (no two are the same) we trimmed the piece for a neat overlap joint and clamped it place before tack-welding it together.
rear angle of glovebox
23. Once again a simple posterboard template came first then we formed the back piece from sheetmetal. We added those little bend-over tabs to help hold things in place; they probably weren’t needed.
inside shot of glovebox
24. Looking inside the glovebox we were pleased with the final shape and even the size is still suitable for what is supposed to be in a glovebox… gloves.
comparison of old cardboard glovebox and new metal box
25. We couldn’t resist this comparison shot; ole Henry didn’t plan on his cardboard gloveboxes lasting 83 years.
latch mechanism of glovebox door
26. We opted for a simple magnetic latch to hold the door closed as there is little room for the factory-style spring clip on the bottom. The metal pad on the door contacts the magnet and those two holes in the corners of the opening are for the factory rubber bumpers.
machined glovebox door
27. Here it is, an all-new, small glovebox for the ’36 Ford. The chrome Lokar knob is the perfect touch for our vintage ride. Next up, smoothing the dash and mounting all those gauges, switches and more… stay tuned.
Lokar
(877) 469-7440
lokar.com
Speedway Motors
(800) 979-0122
speedwaymotors.com
Modern Rodding

VOLUME 3 • ISSUE 23 • 2022