Core Strength

By Brian Brennan Photography by Jason Chandler

hink back a few months (May ’21 issue) to our 1969 Ford Torino Cobra Jet 428 4V Q-code project. We’re back! The last time we replaced the passenger side quarter-panel. Yep, our Torino was in dire straights and needed lots of attention. Knowing this, we rounded up a fresh radiator core support (PN 350-8469) from Auto Metal Direct (AMD) and visited Craig Hopkins at The Installation Center where he quickly showed us how to replace a tired, worn, and/or rusted radiator core support.

While it truly fits our Torino Cobra Jet, this radiator core support will also work on 1966-1969 Torinos, Fairlanes, and Rancheros. There is a second core support for the same vehicles for 1970-1971. While you are at it, you might want to also consider replacing both upper and lower radiator support mount brackets (upper, PN 351-8467-3 replaces factory PN C7OZ-8A193-A; and lower PN 351-8467-2 replaces factory PN C7OZ-8052-A).

A little more on fit. The reproduction radiator core support will work on all engine sizes except the six-cylinder model. According to AMD, “It’s stamped from a high-quality OE 20-gauge steel on new tooling and each radiator core support features the correct original shapes, size, bends, tabs, and holes as the original.” It comes bathed in an EPD coating to protect it against corrosion. (EPD is “electrophoretic deposition” or more commonly called “electro coating.” It’s an immersion wet paint process that uses electrical current to help the paint product bond to the metal surface.)

Of course for Hopkins, performing any magnitude of sheetmetal work is just “another day at the office,” having done this type of job hundreds of times over the years. Throw in a full complement of tools and a proper workspace and a task such as this is well within his capabilities. The best part while he was doing the work, he could take the time to tell us the best way to approach such a project all the while “hammering and banging” on sheetmetal without missing a beat (no pun intended).

Anytime you are working on sheetmetal on a vintage piece of tin you want to make sure what you see is really what was intended by the original designers and the factory assembly team. How do you do that? Well, in our story here, make sure the fenders and hood are in good shape and that they line up (gaps) to your satisfaction. If they do you are good to go; if not, you will want to give some consideration as to where the problem is and make the necessary correction.

As for tools you will want to make sure that you have a proper air chisel, welder, spot welder, hammer and dollies, 3/16-inch grinding disc to remove spot welds, vise grips, weld-through primer, and a full collection of C-clamps, both “deep and shallow throw.” To answer this question, we visited our local Harbor Freight store (which for me is online) and rounded up a handful of examples of the tools that will come in handy when doing a job of this nature or any number of other sheetmetal projects.

Unless you have copious amounts of time and a great deal of experience don’t expect this to be a weekend project. It can be but odds are this is going to take you three or four weekends to accomplish the task. Patience and safety will always yield the best results. Follow along with the photos and watch how Hopkins performs a step-by-step operation for changing out the radiator core support.

1. Craig Hopkins is measuring the front panel, no matter what the shape, before removing it. In our case the hood and fenders lined up well, telling us the front end is in good shape with regards to factory gaps.

3. Hopkins begins by cutting from the inside along the inner fender. (AMD offers these panels new, but since these panels are in good shape they were worth saving.) Be careful not to remove more metal than necessary; continue this process on the front side as well.

5. Most of the panel was removed and then the process was continued without damaging the components that will remain.

6-7. Keep your hammer and dolly handy to maintain the shape of the panels as we go. Here Hopkins is making minor adjustments as needed.

9. Note, next step is to remove the spots welds.

10-11. Hopkins used a 3/16-inch grinding disc to remove the spot welds. Be careful not to go through both panels; we are keeping the inner fenders and need them intact.

12-13. A grinder is a “must-have” in any rodder’s toolbox. The Bauer (PN 64856) 4-1/2-inch Corded Angle Grinder along with the Bauer (PN 57758) 4-1/2-inch 120-Grit Flap replaceable discs are more great selections.

15. This area is now ready for sanding to prep the area for a nice flush fit on the new core support. This is an Arizona rust-free car, and the inner fenders are worth saving. AMD offers the replacements if your car isn’t as lucky.

17. A sanding disc is used to thoroughly clean the surfaces.

19. To get proper alignment, clamp the new panel in place. Refer to the measurements you took at the beginning to make sure you are where you need to be.

20-21. Scribe an outline on the new panel where you will be welding. This will give you an easy reference for cleaning up the welding surfaces.

23. The Auto Metal Direct 1966 radiator core support is a reproduction for the big-block–equipped cars and crosses over to the Mercury Comet and Cyclone. The 1967 reproduction will work with all V-8 engine models and equally equipped Cyclones and Comets. Each radiator support is EPD coated to help protect against rust and corrosion. The 1969 core support will work on all models except six-cylinder versions.

24-25. AMD’s reproduction radiator brackets match perfectly, with the one shown for the 1966 big-block Fairlane, Comet, and Cyclone. Also available for the 1966 small-block and 1967-1969 Fairlane, Torino, and Ranchero V-8s.

26-27. Hopkins used a weld-through primer on these areas to help prevent rust and corrosion where the two panels meet.

28-29. At The Installation Center, lots of clamps are a must. The key to a good weld is a tight-fitting panel—and these are critical to achieve that fit.

30-31. Harbor Freight offers a wide range of C-clamps, such as the Pittsburgh 8-inch Deep Throat U-Clamp (PN 45917) and 6-inch C-Clamp (PN 37850). These have countless uses throughout a project, whether it be in the garage or around the garage!

32. The spot-welding process begins and is repeated to ensure a factory fit. Notice the metal is bare; you should apply one or more “E-Coat in a Can” to finish the panel once it is completely installed.

33-34. Hopkins uses his commercial spot welder, making the installation a breeze. If you are plug welding, as you might be doing with your Harbor Freight 120V Chicago Electric Spot Welder (PN 61205), it takes a little more time but you can achieve similar results that the pros do.