Modern Rodding Tech
InTheGarageMedia.com
By John GilbertPhotography By THE AUTHOR
Switch
Graft
Restore
Rusted-Out Steel the
Right Way
Chris Campbell of Precision Hot Rods and Fabrication is next to the finished project regarding repairing the doorskin on this 1934 Ford three-window coupe.
Chris Campbell of Precision Hot Rods and Fabrication is next to the finished project regarding repairing the doorskin on this 1934 Ford three-window coupe.
By John GilbertPhotography By THE AUTHOR
Switch
Graft
Restore Rusted-Out Steel the Right Way
I

t’s always a chuckle when a non-car guy walks up to the owner of a recently restored or freshly built hot rod and remarks, “I didn’t know you could still buy one of those cars brand new.” Where does one start? Do you tell the guy he’s looking at five old cars cut apart and welded back together to create the car he’s admiring, or just smile and say thanks? 

There are a lot of different projects a first-time DIY guy can do without needing tons of equipment or expertise to make desired repairs or upgrades to his project car— but returning large, rusted-out areas into good-as-new sheetmetal isn’t one of them. 

That said, this doesn’t mean a DIY guy can’t stand half a chance taking a shot at doing his own sheetmetal repair if he doesn’t mind making a serious investment in the right equipment and learning how it’s done. Or for that matter the hot rod shop that wants to expand the services they’re doing in-house. 

To illustrate how large sections of badly rusted sheetmetal body parts are repaired properly we enlisted our friends at Precision Hot Rods and Fabrication in Macedonia, Ohio, to bring Modern Rodding readers from start to finish in on a pair of heavily rusted 1934 Ford doors. 

Chris Campbell at Precision Hot Rods’ first step was to confirm the door shells were worth investing the tremendous amount of metalwork required to restore both doors to a rust-free state. This meant checking the door shells weren’t too tweaked or twisted beyond being able to return to their factory original shape. 

Next Campbell buzzed the exterior of the doors with a coarse flexible disc on a body grinder to strip old paint down to the bare metal to look for surprises—surprises meaning crappy previous patches or deep dents or rust holes packed with Bondo. 

Both doors passed inspection, so Phase 3 was to send the pair to American Quality Stripping (AQS) in Sandusky, Ohio, to be dipped in a bubbling chemical goo that stripped every molecule of rust and old paint down to bare silvery steel. 

Preparation of the bare steel surface before DTM (direct to metal) primer can be sprayed must be meticulous otherwise paint blemishes in the final finish will appear immediately or later in the life of the paintjob; paint blemishes can appear as crow’s feet, cracks, or bubbling blisters.

The doors when AQS returned to Precision Hot Rods came sprayed with a light protective coating to hold off rust until a permanent solution was undertaken. After steel body parts, such as the doors, are chemically dipped and stripped, the liquid chemicals will remain trapped in the steel seams and cause paint blemishes to appear in the future. 

Precision Hot Rods uses a BernzOmatic propane torch to boil out and burn the chemical solution from the seams, followed by flushing (washing) the steel parts with economy-grade lacquer thinner and force drying with compressed air. 

Next Campbell assessed what steel he had left to work with; chemical stripping removes gobs of rust scale and it’s always a shock how much material (steel) on a body panel is gone when it comes back from stripping. Even on a completely rust-free 1934 Ford door there’s going to be areas where years of repeated opening and closing (slamming) the door will crack open tears in the sheetmetal. Campbell identified the tears and TIG welded it closed, followed by grinding and metal finishing to an undetectable repair. 

Repairing the large, rusted-out areas at the bottom of the doors was a process of custom-fabricating sections of 18-gauge sheetmetal cut from a 4×8-foot sheet combined with locating aftermarket patch panels stamped out to perfectly match the interior details of the door. 

Collecting years of water trapped between the plinth seal and the doorskin, the stamped plinth for the exterior door handles are subject to rust. Additionally, countless cycles of the doors opening and closing flexes the doorskin and cracks the steel beneath the door handle, allowing a rich environment for rust damage to occur. 

Precision Hot Rods and Fabrication invested 40 hours of labor into restoring each door. Not everyone can do work like this. It takes a generous amount of skill, acquired expertise, and specialized equipment to undertake extensive rust repairs. That said, we understand if a DIY guy might tend to shy away; the plus side of reading a tech article is it illustrates what a person should know before they commission a shop to do the work.

Sanding old paint down to bare metal
1. Step 1 involves sanding old paint down to bare metal and looking for damage caused by prior bodywork and rust.
Major rust damage on the inside of the doors
2. It’s not hard to spot major rust damage on the inside of the doors.
Doors returned free of rust scale
3. A trip to American Quality Stripping in Sandusky and the doors returned free of rust scale.
Rust damaged
4. After the rust scale is gone, it’s a shock learning how big the rust holes really are.
A propane torch works well to boil out and burn chemical stripper trapped in the seams
5. A propane torch works well to boil out and burn chemical stripper trapped in the seams.
Economy lacquer thinner and compressed air is used to wash and clean the steel afterward
6. Economy lacquer thinner and compressed air is used to wash and clean the steel afterward.
Cracks and tears in the door were identified, TIG welded, and ground flush
7. Cracks and tears in the door were identified, TIG welded, and ground flush.
Excessive welding heat warps sheetmetal
8. Excessive welding heat warps sheetmetal. A series of quick spot welds holds the heat zone to a minimum.
Additional spot welds were made to fill in the gaps, ultimately forming one long weld
9. Additional spot welds were made to fill in the gaps, ultimately forming one long weld.
Generating too much heat from grinding the welds can cause the door and repair patch to warp
10. Generating too much heat from grinding the welds can cause the door and repair patch to warp.
Typically hinge openings are bent outward from years of overextending the doors and must be flattened
11. Typically hinge openings are bent outward from years of overextending the doors and must be flattened.
Door handle plinth
12. Good metalworking is a beautiful thing to behold. Notice the perfect subtle curve was maintained.
The door handle plinth stamped in the door was torn from typical wear and rusted
13. The door handle plinth stamped in the door was torn from typical wear and rusted.
Brazing with brass worked best to repair the torn steel and re-mold the plinth shape
14. Brazing with brass worked best to repair the torn steel and re-mold the plinth shape.
The rusted area is cut out square and used to make a template to fabricate a new patch
15. The rusted area is cut out square and used to make a template to fabricate a new patch.
Two tack welds are made to allow bending the patch piece inward or outward for a perfect fit
16. Two tack welds are made to allow bending the patch piece inward or outward for a perfect fit.
Investing more hours welding and grinding made it impossible to tell this was a rusted-out area
17. Investing more hours welding and grinding made it impossible to tell this was a rusted-out area.
Close to being a completed repair, this bottom front corner of the door still needs additional work
18. Close to being a completed repair, this bottom front corner of the door still needs additional work.
Welding creates warpage and pinches and pulls the steel as it progresses
19. Tricky to get this far, welding creates warpage and pinches and pulls the steel as it progresses.
Copper color is U-POL, a weld-through primer used to improve conductivity and prevent future rust
20. Copper color is U-POL, a weld-through primer used to improve conductivity and prevent future rust.
Here the exterior repair is completed and will be totally undetectable when in DTM primer
21. Here the exterior repair is completed and will be totally undetectable when in DTM primer.
No need to dress the interior welds as the door panels will conceal grafted areas
22. No need to dress the interior welds as the door panels will conceal grafted areas.
Preparing intricate areas for DTM primer includes detailed attention to ensuring the seams are free from stripper residue
23. Preparing intricate areas for DTM primer includes detailed attention to ensuring the seams are free from stripper residue.
The nearly completed door is ready for test-fitting to the body and adjusting the gaps
24. The nearly completed door is ready for test-fitting to the body and adjusting the gaps.
 SOURCES
Precision Hot Rods & Fabrication
(330) 908-0234
precisionhotrodsandfab.com
Modern Rodding
VOLUME 2 • ISSUE 4 • 2021